Glad to see the Elvio Cogno Barolo recommended this week by Rebecca Murphy in the Dallas News. I spent a day with the winemaker last month and he is an amazing fellow. Jeff Siegel reports on on a great value from Down Under. Even though winter is winding down in the Northern Hemisphere, we can’t get enough of great red wines, especially when they are also great values. Read on…
Barolo is a magical wine, but it’s not for everyone. For one thing, it’s usually a lot more expensive than this great value wine. It’s not a sipper: It has a lot of acidity and tannins. It requires food.
This one is a magical wine with complex aromas of violets, cedar, strawberries, anise and mushrooms. It has flavors of tart cherries, strawberries, tobacco and anise, with mouthwatering acidity and intense, chewy tannins. Serve it with something rich and creamy like a risotto Milanese or a hearty osso buco.
Nadia Cogno and husband Valter Fissore today run the winery founded by her father, Elvio. It’s a gorgeous property, situated on the top of one of Piedmont’s rolling hills. They produce several barolos, but the Cascina Nuova comes from young vines and is made to be accessible. It’s a delicious way to get to know barolo.
February 29, 2012
By Jeff Siegel
Yet another Australian wine featured on the blog? Hey, the Wine Curmudgeon calls them as he sees them, and if it means changing his mind and admitting that he doesn’t know everything that he thinks he knows, that’s what makes him the Wine Curmudgeon.
Or, to quote a wine drinker named danielbleier on CellarTracker (the blog’s unofficial wine inventory software): “This is what I am looking for in a $10 wine.”
The Stump Jump ($12, sample), is a blend of red Rhone varietals that includes grenache, and it is all of that. Since it’s Australian, there is lots and lots of red fruit (black cherry?) and it’s not shy about the fruit, either. But the wine is far from one dimensional, with a bit of a middle and even a finish and some tannins — things most cheap Aussie wines don’t bother with since they’re only concerned with making the fruit explode in your mouth. And did I mention that the alcohol is only 14 percent, which is practically nothing for an Australian wine?
One caveat: The Stump Jump, despite its relative subtlety, does need hearty, stick to your ribs food. It is still Australian, and trying to drink this by itself would be an adventure in wine tasting. I drank it with with roasted pork country-style ribs, a fine fit, and it would have paired equally as well if I had smoked the ribs.