Source: Dallas Morning News
May 15, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Domaine Vincent Delaporte, Sancerre AOC 2011
Sancerre is a medieval hilltop town and wine region in the Loire Valley in central France. A little more than 2 miles from the town of Sancerre is the even smaller town of Chavignol, home of the famous goat cheese Crottin de Chavignol and also to Domaine Vincent Delaporte.
The family has been in the wine business since the 1800s, and today the winery is managed by Vincent and his son Jean-Yves. They have almost 60 acres of vines, three-quarters of which are planted in sauvignon blanc, the white grape of the region. The rest is in pinot noir, the grape for reds and rosés.
This is a particularly expressive and tantalizing example of Sancerre. It has sauvignon’s distinctive herbal, lemongrass, lime zest and grapefruit aromas and flavors, with notes of white chalk. In the mouth, it is gracefully round and ripe, yet it practically hums with crackling, citrusy acidity. It will be an elegant companion for a baked fillet of sole or, of course, a Crottin de Chavignol.
Tags: Dallas Morning News, Domaine Vincent Delaporte, France, Rebecca Murphy, Sancerre, Wine of the Week, wine reviews
Source: Dallas Morning News
May 8, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Robert Hall, Paso Robles, Rosé de Robles 2012
This was one of the wines that kicked off the Buffalo Gap Wine & Food Summit late last month. It was a beautiful West Texas evening, with everyone in their western finery sipping rosé made in Paso Robles by Texas expat Don Brady. It’s a blend of several grapes that come together in a lip-smacking fusion of strawberry, cherry, berry and orange zest flavors. Medium bodied, round in the mouth and velvety smooth, this rosé is sure to shine with barbecued chicken or with a taco salad.
Brady is a graduate of Texas Tech University. He did winemaking stints at Pheasant Ridge, Llano Estacado and Ste. Genevieve wineries before heading to California. He joined the Robert Hall Winery in 2001 but makes it back home often.
Tags: Dallas Morning News, Paso Robles, Rebecca Murphy, Robert Hall, Rosé, Wine of the Week
All it took was for the Prime Minister of China to say “stop using government money for luxurious dinners and wine.”
Bordeaux First Growths are finding it harder to sell in China.
I was in a recent discussion with another master sommelier that is in the retail business about the future of Bordeaux in the retail market in the United States. He sells what he gets and it is not all Big Names. The wine we were drinking during dinner was a bottle of fifth growth, Lynch Moussas 2009 Pauillac. The wine had been purchase at retail by Doug Frost MS, MW for $35 a bottle.
The wine was a good, classic left bank leather cedar and tobacco Bordeaux. The kind you dream of in blind tastings. What was amazing to me during our dinner and conversation was the lack of knowledge that retailers and sommelier around the country know about Bordeaux. Not our group at dinner, but wine programs in general around the country.
Poor little chateau La Conseillante and Troplong Mondot, Ask someone you know who loves wine and see if they know where those wine comes from. Should be a no brainer for a Bordeaux drinker right? Not for many young wine professional and sommeliers out there.
Why is there a disconnect with people on the none Classified Bordeaux in terms of recognition?
Have American wine drinkers lost interest in Bordeaux or has Bordeaux lost interests in the states? Has Bordeaux shifted its sales strategy to only the Far East?
I just read an article on that very subject written last week in the Wine Spectator by Suzanne Mustacich. It confirms what I thought was going on after my last trip to Bordeaux.
There were fewer Asian buyers at the UGC (Union of Grand Cru) tasting and a sense of push back on the lofty prices of the first growths. The new Chinese government has made it clear that extravagance is frowned upon. Many of the super seconds will be happy with this new turn of events. They are the ones who had the common sense and encourage to start backing off pricing after the incredible back to back vintages of 2009 and 2010.
Is the United States looking better in the eyes of the Bordeaux merchants?
They never gave up on us. The dollar was in the tank and the euro was strong. The Asia market added increased pressure on the situation at a time of recession. Bordeaux sells in the world markets, not just England the USA. The argument is have they kept prices higher than a normal adjustment after lighter vintages of 2011 and 2012.
The recession and the rise of the second Asia wine crazy country haven’t helped Americans in their Bordeaux wine purchases. Japan is still a major purchaser of Bordeaux and also had a strong presence at the UGC tastings.
Understanding it all:
I think we are settling in for the long haul. It seems that people on both sides of the Pacific still want Bordeaux and will buy just about anything with Bordeaux on the label.
Bravo Cotes de Bordeaux, who are in the process of rolling out their new labels featuring Bordeaux prominently on the front label. I think you guys got it right. Put Bordeaux on the label and it will sell. Send some to us…
The Lucky 61 along with those classic St Emilion and Pomerol producers that have etched a notch in our wine memory are still in demand. Of the 70 million cases of Bordeaux produced each year, only about 2% are those Big names. Where does the rest of it go? It goes to my palate, because it’s all I can afford.
The Unsung Heroes of Medoc :
Chateau Larose Trintaudon, Haut Medoc and Chateau Greysac ,Medoc
These are good size Chateau that make affordable wines year in and year out. There are no giant price swings like you see in the best vintages. These guys, are consistently good and offer reasonable prices, at $20 or under on the shelf. These are the two best known and are widely available. I have tasted these wines for the past twenty years and fined them to be reliable and delicious.
Other Non – “Medoc” Bordeaux
Chateau St Sulplice Bordeaux and Chateau Bonnet Blanc and Rouge
These are Bordeaux wines I drink on a regular basis….. It has been one year later. Now, what is it going to take to get these wines out there and in the glass of your local wine bar, café , bistro , or with the young sommeliers and on the shelves of retailers?
Tags: Bordeaux, The Stout Report
Mad Men kicked off season 6 and this weekend is episode 3. If you’ve found yourself wanting to throw a super-stylized Mad Men themed dinner party, we’ve got just the cocktail recipes to inspire you.
The Mad Men Martini
Your Choice Gin or Vodka
2 oz Pinnacle Vodka
Vermouth (Optional)
Method:
Strain into a chilled martini glass.
Garnish: 1 Olive
Vodka Gimlet
1.5 oz Ketel One vodka
¾ oz lime juice
3-4 lime slices
Method:
Pour Vodka and lime juice into mixing glass, shake and strain into martini glass.
Add 3 to 4 slices of lime.
Old Fashion – Don Draper Style
2 ½ oz Canadian Club
1 orange slice
1 maraschino cherry
1 teaspoon sugar
Few drops of Angostura bitters
A splash of soda water to muddle ingredients
Method: Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add whisky, lemon juice and sugar and shake, shake, shake. Strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice and garnish with a Maraschino cherry or lemon wedge.
Garnish: Maraschino cherry or lemon wedge.
Manhattan
1¾ oz Knob Creek Rye Single Barrel
¾ oz of sweet vermouth
1 dash of aromatic bitters
1 Maraschino cherry
Method: Pour bitters, liquors over ice in mixing glass. Stir and strain into martini glass.
Garnish with a Maraschino cherry.
Barefoot Cellars has a new community outreach program that really made an impression on me. It’s a You-Tube based campaign, embracing social media. In fact, I like it so much, next week at Vinitaly I am presenting on a panel with other social media types (i.e. Alder Yarrow of the wine blog Vinography) and showcasing the campaign as one of the right ways to utilize social media in the business world.
See the 3rd video below for Austinite Andy Ramirez’s video (the one I am embedding in my presentation) – this is a great tool for companies large and small and I applaud Barefoot cellars and their mother company, E&J Gallo, for this giant step toward community engagement with their Soles of the Year project.
Source: Dallas Morning News
March 27, 2013
By Tina Danze
Wines to try for the perfect Easter feast
Great suggestions from Tina Danze and the Wine Panel…
Excerpts below – full story HERE ( might be behind the DMN paywall)
Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha, 2010, Spain
Made with old-vine garnacha grapes, this wine shows juicy raspberry, blackberry and cherry flavors, with a touch of smoke, herbs and spice. “It’s smooth, easy-drinking and delicious. It’s got clean flavors and nice acidity, which makes it food friendly,” Anderson said. “It’s nicely balanced and fantastic for the price.”
Luscher noted that the peppery component of the lamb complemented the wine’s fruitiness. Flynn liked the minty character that the wine brought out in the lamb. At $12, this wine is a terrific value.
Altesino Rosso di Altesino, 2010, Italy
This sangiovese from Tuscany’s Montalcino region shows fresh, red berry fruit with refreshing herbal notes. “It’s a nice surprise — the nose seems subtle and elegant, but on the palate, there’s more acidity and heft than I expected,” Anderson said. “It has an undercurrent of Old World earthiness.”
Beck said that unlike the other wines that brought out the lamb’s gamey quality, “this wine brings out a heartier, beefier quality in the lamb,” giving it a “recognizable, homey meat flavor.” Tidwell noted that the dish had an opposite effect on the wine. “The wine becomes more earthy, gamy and leathery with the meat, which I like. It’s a great match for someone who likes Old World wine.” Flynn said that both the wine and the lamb bridged Old World and New World flavor profiles. “That’s why this is such a good match.”
Tablas Creek Vineyard Patelin de Tablas, Paso Robles 2011, California
This Rhone blend comes from a winery co-founded by the Perrin family of France’s Chateau de Beaucastel and Robert Haas of Vineyard Brands. The grapes are sourced from Tablas Creek’s vineyards as well as those of its neighbors; many of the grape suppliers have planted cuttings from Tablas Creek, which originally came from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate, Chateau Beaucastel.
“It’s got more density and concentration than the other wines we’ve seen so far,” Flynn said. “Although it’s mostly syrah, the pepper note doesn’t dominate. The mourvèdre gives the wine an earthiness that I like with the lamb.” Tidwell praised the quality of the fruit. “It’s ripe, but not overripe,” he said. “The wine has a nice suppleness to it, but it’s not over the top.”
Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2010, California
This cab is Roots Run Deep Winery’s flagship wine. It shows rich blackberry and cherry fruit, with vanilla, mint and cocoa notes. “The wine works with all the components on the plate and brings them together,” Beck said. “It’s a smooth, supple wine to go with lamb,” Tidwell said. “It adds texture and richness to the dish.” He praised the wine’s well-integrated oak. “For people who want a cab, or a wine that shows some oak character, this is the pick.” Luscher added that it’s a good cabernet sauvignon for the price. Anderson called the wine a crowd-pleaser.
Tags: Altesino Rosso di Altesino, Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha, Dallas Morning News, Dallas Morning News Wine Panel, Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon, Tablas Creek Vineyard Patelin de Tablas, wine reviews
Source: Dallas Morning News
March 27, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Hanzell, Sonoma Valley, Sebella, Chardonnay 2011
Hanzell is a legendary winery perched on the hillside of Sonoma’s Mayacamas Mountains. It has an illustrious history and serves as a model of quiet-spoken elegance in winemaking. Their specialty is chardonnay and pinot noir made in a style that emulates Burgundy. These wines are made for cellaring and aging for several years.
At about half the price of their iconic chardonnay and pinot noir, the Sebella label gives the winery an opportunity to make wines that are meant to be consumed earlier. The winemaking focus is on preserving fresh fruit and moderating oak influence.
This chardonnay has subtle fruit flavors of pear, apple and citrus with highlights of chalk and honeysuckle. It is a leaner style of chardonnay than you might expect, with vivid acidity and a long finish. With time in the glass, it continues to open and evolve. Open it an hour or so before serving it with oysters, grilled shrimp or ceviché.
Hanzell is the combination of the last name of the winery’s founder, James D. Zellerbach, and the first name of his wife, Hana. The winery was built on Zellerbach’s interpretation of the Burgundian vineyards and wineries he fell in love with in his European travels as an administrator for the Marshall Plan and ambassador to Italy. Today the property is owned by Alexander de Brye, whose mother acquired the winery in 1975.
Tags: California wine, Chardonnay, Dallas Morning News, Hanzell, Rebecca Murphy, Wine of the Week, wine reviews
Ventisquero, Colchagua Valley, Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Source: Dallas Morning News
March 20, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Wines from Chile still offer high quality at a very reasonable cost. Example: this cabernet sauvignon showing aromas and flavors of raspberry, cassis, blackberry, mocha, tobacco and dried herbs. It is full on the palate, with savory acidity and tannins that have mellowed with a few years in the bottle. Try it with a sausage pizza or a grilled steak.
The Ventisquero winery was established in 2000. The winemaking team, headed by Felipe Tosso, has international experience. The company has vineyards in different areas of north central Chile, from the Pacific coast to the foothills of the Andes, to take advantage of different growing conditions. This gives them a broad range of flavors to play with when blending wines.
Tags: $10 wine, Chile, Colchagua Valley, Dallas Morning News, Rebecca Murphy, Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Ventisquero, Wine of the Week
Source: Dallas Morning News
March 6, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Vincent Girardin, Rully AOC, Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2010
Rully (roo YEE) is a wine appellation in Burgundy in north central France. As with other Burgundian wines, the whites are made from chardonnay and the reds from pinot noir. Vincent Girardin’s family has been making wine since the 17th century. Since he took over the winery, he has increased the number of acres owned or managed by the domaine. They make a dizzying array of white and red Burgundies, from Grand Cru vineyards to more modest ones like this Rully.
The 2010 vintage is considered to be small in production but high in quality, and this Rully is a fitting example. Aromas and flavors of apple and pear with plenty of citrus are enhanced with layers of chalk and dusty minerals. The fruit is fresh and luscious, balanced with mouthwatering acidity. It’s light- bodied and refreshing, a suitable companion for a grilled salmon or roast chicken.
Tags: Burgundy, Dallas Morning News, Rebecca Murphy, Rully AOC, Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Girardin Rully Blanc, white burgundy, Wine of the Week
Source: Dallas Morning News
February 27, 2013
By Rebecca Murphy
Pasqua, Villa Borghetti Valpolicella Superiore DOC, Ripasso 2007
Valpolicella is a wine region and a type of red wine from the Veneto area of northeastern Italy. It can be made in three basic styles.
The first is a light, fresh style made with the fermentation of juice and skins of the local corvina, rondinella and molinara grapes; it produces a dry red wine. The second is made from dried grapes to create a sweeter recioto della Valpolicella or a dry amarone della Valpolicella.
The third style is a combination of the first two, where fresh-style wine is “repassed” with the fermented skins of the dried grapes. Ripasso gives the light, fresh wine a bit more power and body, as in this one from the Pasqua family. It has some bottle age, so fresh fruit has evolved into aromas and flavors of dried fruits like cherry and raspberry, with savory notes of tobacco and coffee. It is light-bodied with savory acidity and integrated tannins. The acidity makes it a good partner for a tomato sauce, as in pizza or pasta with marinara sauce. It’s an amazing value of quality for price.
Tags: $10 wine, Dallas Morning News, Pasqua, Rebecca Murphy, Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore, Villa Borghetti, Wine of the Week




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